Schopenhaur’s Schnoz

In Wine & Life, Wine & Lit on April 10, 2013 at 10:50 am

It occasionally happens that, for no particular reason, long-forgotten scenes suddenly start up in the memory.  This may in many cases be due to the action of some hardly perceptible odour, which accompanied those scenes and now recurs exactly the same as before.  For it is well known that the sense of smell is specifically effective in awaking memories, and that in general it does not require much to rouse a train of ideas.  And I may say, in passing, that the sense of sight is connected with the understanding, the sense of hearing with the reason, and, as we see in the present case, the sense of smell with the memory.  Touch and Taste are more material and dependent upon contact.  They have no ideal side.

-Arthur Schopenhauer

We smell a smell and there it is.  The musty funky sweetness of Hawai’ian dirt, lilacs on chilly and dewy and promising Spring mornings, a hint of smoked meat and all the times and places and people we’ve enjoyed it with.  From there a “train of ideas” is roused.  I think Schopenhauer has it right about most things, including these words from his writings in Studies In Pessimism (excluding his chauvinistic way of completely overlooking womens’ intuitive, ever-capable awesomeness.  But, anyway…).

Scent is part of the way that people fall in love, how doggies get to know one another, how we can tell if a wine is sound or not.  Scent and memory are so connected.  Sometimes the connection is so powerful that I think it might be magic.  But it’s not.  It’s physics and science and amazing tangible stuff like that.  The connection is a beautiful gift that we shouldn’t, but probably usually do, take for granted.

Sight and taste of wines can be pleasing, and interesting, and can tell us many things- though it is the scent that carries us to worlds outside our present time and place.  Different people smell different things in different wines at different times.  Quite the quilt.  If you find a good wine, and if you’re paying it some attention, it can bring you on your very own sort of trip.

Sometimes when I taste a wine I get so lost in thinking about where and who it’s from, how it’s made, what it costs, where it would fit on a particular shop shelf/glass pour/ bottle list.  In the midst of trying to place a wine in a way that makes sense to me and customers, I forget to stop and pay it some mind.  To see what is going on, what it has to offer.  It doesn’t always have to make sense.  Sometimes there is not much there, sometimes it is pleasant but nothing special, and sometimes (the times that make it all worthwhile) I am moved.

It’s important to try, and important not to forget, and important to remember to sniff!

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Ancestral Spirit

In Piemonte on March 23, 2013 at 11:49 am

I had the treat of tasting a few beautiful bottles of old nebbiolo around this time last month, thanks to the very kind (z)infidel who drowned a table full of cool folk in the riches of Burlotto and Conti Boca, the most stunning of which was Burlotto’s ’67 Barolo- one of the more complete and elegant wines of age that I have tasted in awhile.

We enjoyed some spectacular nebbiolo from the Langhe, but the lineup started out with old vintages from further north in Piedmont.  They were the ’64 Cantine Curti Spanna, the ’67 Francoli Spanna, and the ’64 Bertelleti Gattinara, Ghemme, and Spanna.  I found these wines to be pretty exciting, mostly because they are from little Piemonte appellations that have sort of been forgotten.  And as much as I love the new, the present, the fresh, I also hate to forget.  I wouldn’t say that these guys shone like the ’67 Burlotto, or some of the others, but they sure did sing their native song.  And I don’t believe we can ask for anything greater than that.

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These little regions- Ghemme, Gattinara, Sizzano, Boca, Carema were the winemaking regions back in the day of the kingdom of Savoy.  Scattered around the base of the Italian-Swiss Alps, the place is quite pure.  These were the wines of nobility before disease such as phylloxera came along in the late 1800′s and spoiled the vineyards.  Vines were replanted, but these regions never really regained their popularity.  The Langhe, a little further south, housing significant terroir such as Barolo and Barbaresco have come into their own and sort of stolen the show.

There are not a whole bunch of these guys on the market right now, but when you find them, know that they are almost always wines of excellent value.  They are made in viticultural areas with long history, old vines, deep roots, and spanna farming running through their veins.  Blending grapes such as Croatina, Vespolina, and Bonarda are usually found in these bottles as well- all sturdy varieties that could stand on their own in a respectable wine.  Tom’s Wine Line gives a nice rundown of wines and producers from these areas that can be found around the market, as well as his thoughts upon tasting them.

Source: http://allthingsd.com/20090219/the-little-engine-that-could-yahoo-paid-search-adds-video-and-pictures-trying-for-more-clicks/

As much as I love all of the wines of the Langhe, I’m rooting for these underdog regions to make a comeback in the next few decades.  It’s no easy task though.  Eric Pfanner explains in this recent piece on Northern Piedmont how difficult it is to attain even an 8 hectare plot of vineyards, or space to plant vineyards, because the land is so split up among so many landowners.  Sounds like a jungle full of paperwork and negotiations; but still, anything is possible.  If they try really hard, you know…like the little engine that could, I believe that northern Piemonte has what it takes to stun the world again.

And just because- here is someone else who belts out one hell of a native song.  With his banjo and suitcase kick-drum sort of setup, this is Morgan O’Kane, a voice from Virginia’s Appalachian Mountains.  I remember hearing or reading a description of his music as being played with ancestral spirit, which makes lots and lots of sense to me.

What is Annie Hall Drinking?

In Wine & Life, Wine around the Web on February 23, 2013 at 11:40 am

Source: http://www.oomska.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/annie-wine.jpg

There is that iconic scene in Annie Hall (I use “iconic” because I think every shot in the film that I have seen 2 bagillion times is iconic) that takes place on the day when Annie and Alvy first meet.  Annie invites Alvy up to her apartment for some wine “or something”.  She grabs any two glasses and goofily tells the story of a dying narcoleptic as she  pulls an already-opened burgundy bottle of white wine from a cabinet-chest-type-thing and pours a bit into the glasses.  She then sticks the bottle into a planter box full of red geraniums beautifully set against her NYC apartment porch view and sips along with her guest.  They chat, and flirt, and feel like idiots, each in their own special way, hoping the other doesn’t notice.  And so goes the beginning of an idiosyncratic love affair.

I love the scene for so many reasons.  But I think about the wine.  I always wonder what it is.  And why is it sitting in an unrefrigerated cupboard? And why is it already open?  Is she hiding it from someone?  Is Annie like my mom- taking a week or two to drink the same bottle, sometimes adding ice cubes?  Is it disgusting and warm and old?  Or had she opened it for a quick glass before going off to play some tennis and meet the funny little man who would change her life?

Every detail is considered when a movie is made, right?  So the wine must have been considered.  Maybe.  Maybe Woody just didn’t care, and I am a weirdo because I do.  Oh well.  La di da. La. Di. Da.

And, if you’d like to surf a few wine (and food) waves around the web…here you go!

Let’s Start at the Very Beginning-  Paul Lukac’s new book.

“The local AOC system is based on communes, not terroir, and rewards conformity.” Le Puy & AOC hopes.

How to Make Wine- Cool 12×18″ print on Etsy

Burdigala happened at St. Bartholomew’s Church yesterday.  Go Bordeaux!

You’ve got to read this:  The Extraordinary Science of Addictive Junk Food.

Inspired by Valentine’s Day, but a year-round message: Sarah Chappell begs you to Please Stop Pairing Red Wine and Chocolate

…and beyond chocolate- a simplified pairing poster (via A Cup of Jo).

Handsome Noodle is getting Lucid (and making linguine with tuna sauce).

In honor of the 2013 ZAP festival, Cali vine pride, and my ah-hah wine- a blog full of Zinfandel love.

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